Skin Brightening 101
If you ever laid in a tanning bed with one of those playboy bunny stickers on… this blog is for you! (Also- no judgement, I’m guilty too)
Skin brightening is the process of improving or removing discoloration in the skin that can be caused by sun exposure, scars, acne, and hormonal changes. Skin brightening can also refer to improving dullness by exfoliating the top layer of dead skin to reveal the glowing skin beneath it.
It is a common misconception that skin brightening products and procedures should only be done during the winter months, but that is not necessarily the case. Skin brightening is an ongoing, year round process! If you suffer from darkened discolorations or melasma, you should be integrating skin brightening steps into your skincare plan all the time! Some services are best when your risk of direct sun exposure goes down in the fall and winter, but there are tons of option to get you the even, glowing complexion that you desire!
I’m going to be honest here- getting rid of discoloration is a PROCESS! There is no single treatment or product which will act as a magic wand to remove your dark spots. Let me tell you about some of the brightening tools in my toolbox at Bevel Up Skin Bar:
Skin Brightening
Topical Products
SPF
Start here! Without a high quality SPF, you should not begin any brightening products or treatments. You need to have a sunscreen that you enjoy wearing and are committed to using daily with reapplication. Think of this as protecting your investment. At Bevel Up Skin Bar, we offer a variety of different SPF products so you are sure to find something you actually love to use! My personal favorite is the sunbetter Tone Smart SPF 75.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is possibly one of the most controversial skincare ingredients out there. Hydroquinone (aka HQ) is naturally derived from plants and was first used to develop photographs until it’s effect on the skin was discovered. While commonly referred to as a skin “bleaching” product, HQ does not actually bleach the skin, rather it restricts the skin’s ability to produce melanin. This makes it a powerful tool in treating hyperpigmentation.
Currently, hydroquinone is only available by prescription in the US and all over-the-counter preparations have been removed from the shelves. This has to do with legislation from the CARES act effecting outstanding approval processes, however in my opinion it is a great thing for consumers. There can be adverse effects from the use of hydroquinone, and it is best used under the guidance of a licensed prescriber.
One myth that circulates about hydroquinone is that it can cause cancer. Certainly this would give most clients pause, as it should! But the truth is that there is no link between hydroquinone use and cancer in humans. The concern came from an animal study in rodents which showed a potential link with oral use. There is inconclusive research on the effects of HQ on fertility and pregnancy, so I do not recommend HQ for women who are pregnant, trying to become pregnant, or breastfeeding.
For clients with moderate to severe hyperpigmentation or stubborn melasma, hydroquinone can be the answer. At Bevel Up Skin Bar you will be evaluated by a board certified nurse practitioner who can help you determine if a hydroquinone regimen could be the right choice for you. Hydroquinone is extremely effective and is also safe to use under professional guidance.
Vitamin A (retinols, retinoids, and tretinoins)
Vitamin A is known in the skincare world as a retinoid which includes retinol (over the counter) or tretinoin (prescription). Retinoid products are a fantastic way to combat signs of aging, discoloration, and overall skin texture and tone. They work by penetrating deep into the skin layers to stimulate collagen and elastin production. This helps eliminate fine lines and gives the skin a plump appearance. It also stimulates skin cells to slough and turn over more quickly which in turn reduces areas of hyperpigmentation. This leads to a more even complexion!
There are a lot of myths and misconceptions about retinoids, but in general these products are safe and effective for most people. I do not recommend retinoids for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, however. There is no data to suggest topical forms could harm a baby, but based on data from oral forms of Vitamin A, retinoids are generally discouraged in pregnant or breastfeeding women.
At Bevel Up Skin Bar, we offer a variety or retinoid products including retinol, AlphaRet, and prescription tretinoin. I will help to determine which product is right for you during your skincare consultation when we discuss your goals and preferences.
One thing to keep in mind with a retinoid is the expected adjustment period. When beginning a new retinoid regimen, it is common to experience redness, irritation, itching, and even peeling. These are normal and expected reactions which can last up to 6 weeks. Do not let this discourage you from using a retinoid though! Your provider will help you navigate and manage these reactions, and the end result will be so worth it. If you are looking for a non-irritating retinoid, check out AlphaRet. It is one of my new favorite products and offers full strength benefit without the irritation (thank you science!!).
Brightalive
This is a non-irritating skin brightener that contains B vitamins, peptides, and tranexamic acid to reduce the size and intensity of dark spots. I love this product because it feels amazing on your skin with soothing and hydrating properties. Because it doesn’t contain any Vitamin A derivatives, it is a safer choice for pregnant and breastfeeding women. This is also a great product to use year round as it won’t make you more sun sensitive. It even comes in a concentrated post-treatment accelerated serum for use after certain peels or microneedling!
EVEN Tone Correcting Serum
Skinbetter Science Even is a fabulous tool for those looking to improve sun damage and hyperpigmentation without irritation. The advanced technology in Even Tone Correcting Serum targets brown, red, yellow, and tan discolorations while also delivering a high concentration of Vitamin C. This product does not contain any retinol or hydroquinone, so is considered a safer choice for pregnant or breastfeeding women.
Antioxidant serum
Think of this as a multivitamin lotion and a backup for your sunscreen! Using an antioxidant serum daily will keep your skin healthy and give you that bright glow. This should be a part of your daily regimen, no matter your goal, but it has the added benefit of giving you glowing skin!
Services
ZO 3 Step Peel
The ZO 3 Step Peel is the strongest of all the peels I carry at Bevel Up Skin Bar. This medium depth peel offers quick results, but also comes with about 5-7 days of downtime. Your skin will peel off in thin sheets, similar to a bad sunburn, but the skin underneath will be left with fewer dark spots and a more even skin tone! This peel is typically most effective in a series and requires a minimum of 6 weeks on a medical grade retinol or tretinoin prior to the peel. I love this peel in the fall, when you can literally peel away some of your summer damage!
AlphaRet Professional Peel
The AlphaRet Pro Peel is my favorite maintenance peel. It comes in 2 strengths which I customize to your skin needs. While this peel acts a bit deeper in the skin, there is still no downtime. I recommend this peel monthly when working towards improving your skin or maintaining treatment results. Because of the strength of this peel, preconditioning your skin with AlphaRet or another medical grade vitamin A product is required.
ZO No Downtime Brightening Peel
The name says it all- no downtime AND brightening! I love this peel as a pre-event treatment because your skin will glow for days. I will also apply a professional brightening mask during your treatment, making this a great way to pamper your skin and make progress. This peel is perfect year round.
Microneedling
Medical Microneedling uses tiny needles to create controlled injury to the skin surface. When your body responds to the injury, it helps boost the production of new skin cells, collagen, and elastin. It can also help disperse the pigment that causes dark spots. If your discoloration is caused by acne scarring, or you need to focus on skin texture as well as dark spots, microneedling is probably the best place to start! As an added bonus, the small open channels that are created during microneedling allow products to penetrate and act on much deeper parts of the skin. At Bevel Up Skin Bar, we offer ZO Brightalive Accelerated Serum which is safe to apply after microneedling and will really boost your results!
As you can see, there are so many options available to improve hyperpigmentation and promote an even skin tone. There are options beyond what I have listed here too, including various laser treatments! In my opinion, treating hyperpigmentation requires a well thought out game plan and more than one tool.
Maybe you are currently working on brightening your skin, but aren’t getting the results you hoped for, or maybe you are overwhelmed and don’t know where to start. Luckily, you don’t have to be a skincare expert since you have Bevel Up Skin Bar! Our skincare consultations are complimentary and easy to book with the online appointment system. Click here to get started towards a brighter and more even skin tone!
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